DMA connection and speed-test fixes

Check USB, the card, and memory reads before changing firmware.

A slow test or failed load does not automatically mean blocked firmware. Check whether the loader can open the card, see the PCIe link, and read memory reliably.

Run a clean test#

1. Fully shut down both PCs.
2. Check card seating and the cable. Use the data port and a direct USB 3 port on the second PC.
3. Start the gaming PC and let Windows load, then start the second PC.
4. Close PCILeech, MemProcFS, other loaders, and any cheat using the card.
5. Sign in to the DMA loader and run its DMA Speed Test.
6. Keep the card name, firmware, PCIe link, successful reads, and MiB/s.

Read the result#

• Card will not open: check the second-PC driver, USB port, cable, and whether another program owns the device.
• No usable PCIe link or memory ranges: check the gaming-PC side, seating, slot, firmware, and system DMA protection.
• Many reads fail: treat the connection as unstable even if successful reads are fast.
• Reads work but speed is low: check for USB 2, a hub, poor cable, or weak PCIe link.
• Reads and speed look normal: the card worked during this test. Check the game, Status, and config next.

A speed test is not an anti-cheat detection test or a guarantee about bans.

Change one thing at a time#

Keep the first result, change one cable or port, cold boot if needed, and repeat. Changing hardware, firmware, and BIOS together makes the cause harder to find.

If you need a map, use the MMAP guide. It does not repair a card that cannot open.

Send both results and the change between them through support.